San Petronio

Fresco, ‘Annunciation’, Basilica di San Petronio – by Lorenzo Costa

I have another saint for you! Though my main reason for adding San Petronio to my pantheon of Roman Catholic saints is not so much his interesting story – he has one, of course – as his interesting and enormous Basilica in Bologna. On the day I visited, workmen were verrryyy carefully moving the effigy of San Petronio down from his wall pedestal – he’s life-sized – and onto a wheeled trolley.

Last Judgement in Orvieto

Luca Signorelli’s frescoes of ‘The Last Judgement’ in the Cappella di San Brizio in the Duomo of Orvieto is claimed by some to equal or exceed Michelangelo’s famous version of that story painted on the end wall of the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican. Having now been fortunate enough to see both, I’ll pick Signorelli’s work. Although Michelangelo’s Sistine ceiling is superb, I’ve always thought his ‘Last Judgement’ to be a bit over-rated – rather grim, a writhing and a creaking air to it (even considering that a pious Pope had someone later paint decorous bits of clothing over the naughty bits of the completely naked figures of Michelangelo). Signorelli’s frescoes have more lightness, and more narrative, I think. Recently restored, they have a freshness to the eye, and an absorbing narrative. I managed a crick on my neck from staring at them. Entrancing.

Orvieto’s Duomo

Duomo of Orvieto

I could apologise for including in this post so many photos of the facade of the Duomo in Orvieto (an Umbrian town), but I think it’s justified. That moment when it bursts upon you as you walk through the narrow alley-like streets of the medieval town – magic. You’re in dark shadows, you look up, and gasp when the shimmer of the facade glows between the tall buildings.